Thanksgiving is my
favorite holiday. Many a year, I've hosted Thanksgiving dinner party at my
house. One November, a newsletter landed in my email box with an incredible
deal. Renaissance Cruise was offering a 5-day Mediterranean cruise from
Istanbul, Turkey to Athens, Greece, with a 2-day stay at a 4-star hotel in
either city, and included airfare from New York City. It was a last minute
thing, so the price for the whole package was less than the airfare to Istanbul
alone! I called my husband right away. Vision of the movie "Midnight
Express" danced on his mind, so he hesitated on Turkey but was thrilled
about visiting Greece. Good deals are irresistible; I made the reservations the
next day. We would be spending our Thanksgiving holiday in Turkey.
We drove from Boston to New York City to catch our flight to Istanbul, Turkey.
At the JFK International Airport, we exchanged some money just in case we
needed some Turkish Liras for tips or a taxi. Fifty U.S. dollars instantly
turned my husband into a multi-millionaire! We later learned that Turkey's
inflation was spiraling out of control, to the point where even the locals
preferred to hold U.S. dollars. Every day, the exchange rate fluctuated
violently, sometimes by as much as 6,800 liras! Everything was in millions of
liras, a number so cumbersome the locals didn't even bother to use the last
three zeros.
We arrived in Istanbul, Turkey after a nine hours flight. Renaissance
representatives waiting at the airport whisked us away to our hotel. After
checking in, we attended a welcome briefing, where we picked up information
about the cruise and all the available tours. Renaissance Cruise was a family
of ships designed to provide excellent service, fine dining, reasonable prices
and exotic ports-of-call. Our ship The Renaissance R1 was the first in a series
of eight 684-passenger ships.
Thus began our exciting adventure in Turkey. Our hotel, located in the
outskirts of Istanbul, overlooks the Sea of Marmara. On our first evening, we
walked around the neighborhood, and anticipated some good food at a local
restaurant. Our Turkish friends back home had introduced us to their delicious
cuisine, so we were undaunted. We managed to get someone to give us restaurant
recommendation. At the restaurant, we just went up to the display case that was
showcasing all kinds of meat and fish, and pointed to what we wanted. Our meal
of mixed grilled chicken and fish served with vegetables were excellent. The
unfiltered coffee, however, was not something we could get used to.
The next day, we went
on a whirlwind tour to see the highlights of Istanbul. Our first stop was the Basilica cistern, which provided water for the Imperial
Palace. The underground cistern with Medusa column bases might appear familiar
to some people, as the James Bond movie "From Russia with Love" was
filmed on location here. Next, we toured the impressive Topkapi
Palace, where sultans and their harem lived during the heydays of the
Ottoman Empire. Spice lovers would love the intoxicating aromas of the herbs
and spices at the Egyptian Spice Bazaar.
Later that afternoon, we took a taxi and went out on our own to explore the Grand Bazaar. Incidentally, the opening motorcycle chase
scene of the new James Bond movie "Skyfall" was filmed on the rooftop
of this market. We had read about the Grand Bazaar, but nothing prepared us for
the astounding size of this medieval looking market. With over 58 covered
streets and 1,200 shops, you can literally get lost in the maze. The bazaar is
organized by specialty. There is a lane lined with leather goods, another with
carpets, another selling only jewelry, and so on. Between them are a few
restaurants and cafes. We bought a pair of leather jackets; they were much
cheaper in Turkey. Then we wandered into the carpet alley and went into a
store. The shopkeeper sat us down, offered us some tea, and asked us some
questions regarding our preferences on colors, patterns, and size. Then he
proceeded to give us a lesson on carpets - the knots, the type, and the stories
behind them. His assistants began to unfurl one carpet after another. As soon
as we made a gesture, the carpet was set aside. We were off to some serious
carpet buying. At the end of the show/entertainment/education, we bought two
small rugs. We paid good money for them, and probably got ripped off since we
are hopeless at bargaining. Our friends had recommended the Blue Mosque, and
when the store merchant also insisted that we went before the mosque closed for
the evening, he volunteered his friend to drive us there. Since we didn't want
to carry the carpets with us, he suggested that we left them at the shop and
pick them up later. We took his advice, but when we returned to the Grand
Bazaar, we could not find the carpet store! We were sure we got scammed. After
going round and round the labyrinth of shops for what seemed like hours, we finally
found the store. We picked up our carpet and left the bustling market; we had
enough excitement for one day.
Our ship was supposed to leave Istanbul on a Wednesday evening. It was timed so
that the R1 will pass through the Straits of Dardanelles between 7 am and 9 am
the next day, Thanksgiving Day. The Dardanelles is a body of water that is 38
miles long with a width varying from four to three quarters of a mile
separating the continent of Europe from the westernmost tip of Asia Minor. This
strategic strait was the site of naval conflicts over the years. The ancient
city of Troy, best known for the legendary Trojan War, lies southeast of the
Dardanelles. Unfortunately, due to some technical difficulties, we did not cast
off from Istanbul until the next morning. By the time we reached the straits,
we were enveloped in complete darkness. We could barely see outside the ship,
much less the straits.
Luckily, we had plenty to do. It was our first day on the R1. We spent the day
exploring the ship, getting our bearings around our "home" for the
next five days. The dining options on this cruise were different from other
cruise lines. The R1 had four restaurants, two of which needed an advance
reservation, if you wanted to dine there. Most of the restaurants had open
seating, mostly with tables for 4 to 6, and a few for 2. Much to our delight,
the dress code was casual. Our first day at sea was Thanksgiving Day, and we
were excited to learn that they would be serving a traditional Thanksgiving
dinner. We sat with two other couples and shared stories about our experiences
we had had in the city. They were better at bargaining than we were. As for our
dinner, the chef did a good job serving up a pretty authentic Thanksgiving
dinner with all the trimmings. We like cranberry sauce on our turkey, and that
was the only thing missing.
From Istanbul, we cruised to Kusadasi, Rhodes and Crete before disembarking in
Athens, where we stayed on land for another two days. Overall, it was a
fantastic trip. As it turned out, my husband discovered he liked Turkey better
than Greece. New experiences will change your thoughts and feelings about
places. So, when traveling, keep an open mind!
Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dardanelles
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Bazaar,_Istanbul
Did you know?
Istanbul is the
only metropolis in the world that is situated on two continents.